2016-04-29 - in Harbour Island

Finished our golf cart rental from yesterday.  We all enjoyed driving up and down the streets of this fabulous little town.  Lots of waves and smiles.  We finally did one more trip to the beach.  Fab day!

2016-04-28 - to Harbour Island

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Just a quick fill up of water before we leave!

So we are off to Harbour Island.  To get there you need to get through a delightful stretch known as the Devil's Backbone. (See top of map below)

This 'nail-biting' stretch is 11-miles and a mere thread running along Eleuthera’s northern shoreline. It is littered with wrecks dating back hundreds of years.  Apparently, the Eleutherans would tie lanterns to donkeys and walk them to cliffs to simulate a lighthouses so that ships would run aground thinking they were coming into safe harbour.  They would, then, take the ships cargo for their own.  

So, you can hire 'Bandit' who will pilot you through for $120 U.S. Each way.  We could take the high speed ferry but only stay in Harbour Island for a few hours.  We wanted to do this ourselves.

So, why we would want to traverse the Devil’s Backbone?  Why not?!

ALL the various yachting guides essentially begins, “Don’t do it, first- timer.” (Second- or even third-timer is probably implied).  This is our third season and we feel we have developed a bit of 'saltiness'.

So, “Golden coral heads” litter our path.  There is also one particular narrow point that I went to the bow to ensure our path was true.  Kerry had two screens going..the iPad with Garmin Blue Charts and our chart plotter.  The coral heads are pretty but will puncture pitilessly. Passing clouds look like coral heads as their shadows dot the water.  There are a few skinny navigational  “marker” poles along the way but they have sometimes been reported missing, changed, moved or hurricane damaged.  You just have to be on the whole time, reading the water, eyes on screens watching how well you are following the rhumb line.  All in all the passage went great.  We made it to our anchorage in Harbour Island.  After a quick bite we made it to shore and found ourselves renting a golf cart.  Sweet! Lots of laughs as we explored this fabulous village, soft pink beaches and extremely friendly locals.  Many stopped to chat with Dylan, crouching down and holding his hand as they spoke softly to him....he loved it!

2016-04-27 - in Spanish Wells

From Wikipedia...some interesting facts about Spanish Wells...

Spanish Wells is one of the districts of the Bahamas. Spanish Wells is a small town on the island of St. George's Cay.  It has a population of approximately 1,500 people.  Many residents get around the island using golf carts instead of full-sized cars. Historically, the island was used as a last stop for Spanish ships returning to Europe, where these ships refilled their water supply from wells created for this purpose - thus the English name of the settlement: Spanish Wells.

The first colonists were the Eleutheran adventurers from Bermuda (intending to be some of the first settlers of Eleuthera), who suffered shipwreck on a reef, known as the "Devil's Backbone" off Eleuthera in 1647. After living in a cave known as "Preacher's Cave" on Eleuthera, they ended up at Spanish Wells. Among other, later, groups of settlers were Crown loyalists, who left the United States after the American Revolutionary War. Currently, (2006) Spanish Wells is a centre for lobster fishing in the Bahamas. 

The area suffered extensive property damage during a direct hit from Hurricane Andrew in 1992 and Floyd in 1999.

2016-04-26 - to Spanish Wells

In the morning Connor and I did some exploring of the ruins.  Below the pics is some interesting details of the island and the ruins that we found on the island after we returned.  We are continuing researching to find out more.

We weighed anchor for Spanish Wells and hooked onto a mooring ball. We couldn't wait to get to town to explore the beautiful streets lined with colourful homes.  lots of walking and exploring today!

...we pulled this off of the Internet as we wanted to learn more about the mansion ruins on Royal Island

"Royal Island is located off the northwest part of Eleuthera, and is five miles long with a natural harbor in the center.  According to Moseley's 1926 book The Bahamas Handbook, Royal Island was originally called "Ryal Island", an Anglicized version of "Real" after the silver one real coin which circulated throughout the Spanish empire.  At least one researcher (AB Molander) has suggested that Royal Island may be Guanahani, the island where Christopher Columbus first set foot in the New-World.

In late April of 1696, the pirate Henry "Long Ben" Every (also sometimes known as John Avery) anchored here in the pirate ship Fancyafter fleeing the Atlantic.  Meanwhile, asmaller boat containing four men went on to visit Nicholas Trott, the corrupt governor of the Bahamas who resided on New Providence, as part of a plot to bribe him to ensure Every would not be apprehended by local authorities during the ensuing manhunt by the English government.  Every's plan was successful, and he was one of the few pirates in history to retire with his loot without being arrested or killed in battle.

According to the November 1874 edition of Harper's Monthly magazine (Volume 49, page 765-6), Royal Island's sheltered harbor was also a rendezvous where arms and stores were concealed, and where royalist privateers took refuge during the American Revolution.  The magazine goes on to say that "an old stone house still remains there which has doubtless witnessed many wild, mysterious scenes in days gone by."  Exploring the ruined estate on this island, one can certainly believe it!

The center of Royal Island is home to the ruins of an old mansion which once boasted numerous guesthouses, a bar, a large detached kitchen and bathroom, and several other outbuildings along with an impressive garden.  Most of the references to habitation on this island have been found in nautical references which, as early 1887 (or possibly 1823 -- see below), refer to the house in reference to a nearby well full of good water.  For example, the 1918 edition of the West Indies Pilot makes reference to "a large and conspicuous stone house" near the center of the island and 3/4 miles northeast of "two remarkable wooded paps or hummocks, about 75 feet high."  Perhaps the same house is referred to in the 1887 and 1892 editions of that same reference, although they mention only a "house" without calling it "large" or "conspicuous" so perhaps these sources are referring to one of the earlier building.  The first edition of the Colombian Navigator, published in 1823, refers to "a large house, with its garden, and some trees" on "Egg Isle", but since it does not provide any additional treatment of Egg Island or Royal Island, it seems possible that the "Egg Isle" was confused with Royal Island.  Note that the guest houses scattered around the estate appear to be of much more recent construction than the main house and the older buildings on the east side of the estate.  Further research is required to determine which building was indeed the first to be built.

Current references are consistent in claiming that the crumbling remains of the estate which can now be seen there was the center of a sheep farm on the island which was established by an estranged English dignitary.  However, it is not clear how long ago the house was inhabited.  The most recent individual to own the property was Mrs. Evelyn Guyton, although the house has been deserted for decades and was recently sold to a developer with plans to turn the island into a subdivision of luxury homes.  Unfortunately, the current map of development plans on the Royal Island website seems to indicate that this historic estate is slated for demolition so that a pair of homes may be built on the underlying lot."

2016-14-25 - last day in the Exumas!

It's our final morning in the Exumas.  We love the beauty of nature in the Exumas and will really being here. 

Our last wouldn't be complete without a field trip to the beach to visit the iguanas.  

Heading for Eleuthera - Royal island!!

Update:  Just landed in Royal Island after a brisk sail - faster than we anticipated...8hours!  Crew did great.  Mini- crew had Gravol...just in case.

                                    (Singing to rock in' tunes after a long day!)

Looking forward to heading into Spanish Wells tomorrow!

2016-04-24 - to Allans Cay

We spent a few moments exploring the tranquility around Hog Cay this morning - hiking and investigating some underwater caves.

We weighed anchor at 10am for Allans Cay near the top of the Exuma chain.  We arrived after 7:00 moments before the sun set.  It was another busy day fishing and we were all proud of how we handled each catch.  For 15 minutes we are a well oiled machine...reeling in, sails down or de powered, engines neutral, moving boat if needed, grabbing net, providing assistance, etc.  these are all things that need to be done and we all share the tasks (especially Connor).  The last guy was our largest fish...a 4-ft bull Mahi.  The most amazing thing was the water was glowing with other Mahi swimming by as we were pulling in the fish.  Tonight we offered the fish remains off the back of the boat.  It's always exciting to see what shark would pay us a visit.  Connor was on watch and piped up..."someone's here!".  It was another large nurse shark. After a few tentative pass bys...the Sharks gently grasped the fish, thrashed a few times and the fish was gone.  Another exciting end to a great day!

Hog Cay anchorage - all alone

2016-04-23 - to Hog Cay

We had a great day without any agenda.  We pulled away from our anchorage in Pipe Cay and thought we would hang out on the inside to experience the sand bars.  We anchored...Kerry did a quick dinghy ride to check out the little islands and, when he got back, we had decided to head out fishing instead. The seas had finally calmed and we were ready to try our new rigging.  We were told the area just outside the cut and then south to the Staniel cay cut was good for fishing.  We paced up and down like soldiers and nothing was biting.  The wind, though, seemed great for heading north....so, we did just that.  We pointed Hi-5 in the northerly direction and decided we would go as far as we liked and find an anchorage for the night.  It had appeared that we would be getting close to the Exuma Land and Sea Park...Hog Cay.  We hadn't caught a fish yet, but we were not giving up.  With an hour to spare the line zinged!  It was a large Bull Mahi.  It was all hands on deck, each taking turns at the rod.  At the end, though, Kerry is always on the net as his arm length makes that a suitable choice for him.  Releived we finally landed a fish, we moved towards our anchorage.  We ducked in there early evening, and tied to a park mooring ball.  The tide was ripping through the anchorage.  Connor was dying to get in to feel the current while trying to perfect his free diving.  He was joined with three very large horse-eyed jacks (about 2 feet long) all being very curious and playful with him.  This Park is a no take park so their conservation efforts are allowing these animals to survive to an older age.  This opportunities always spark great concversations of the importance and value of conservation.  We tied our fish to a line to see if we could attract any shark friends.  Within a short time we notice a large dark shadow as the sun was setting.  It was a 6-ft nurse shark.  So beautiful and gentle. I got down on the swim ladder and when it came to sniff the fish I got in a little pat on the head.  Another magical day!

2016-04-22 - to Pipe Cay

We finally tore ourselves away from Big Majors.  The wind had settled a bit.  We had also run out of water, so we had to make our way to Staniel to fill our tanks.  After refuelling of gas and filling water we made a quick anchor stop.  Connor and I jumped in the dinghy and made our way to Staniel Cay to get a few provisions at the store.  The mail boat was scheduled to arrive today so the fruits and veggies from last mail boat run were looking a little shrivelled from the heat.  We managed to find some cheese and a lovely homemade coconut bread to add to our grocery mix.  We made it back to the boat and weighed anchor for Pipe Cay.  We had a quick tour of the abandoned Decca Station there  and then moved a few miles north where we were all alone with exception of a couple of sea birds that enjoyed a rest on the dinghy as they watched the sun set.  Connor did the honours of blowing the conch as the sun slipped beyond the horizon.  During our tour of the Decca Station ruins we found a small bundle of wire in the rubble.  Connor has been dying to make jewellery with his sea glass and started twisting a few sea glass pendants with the copper wire that he cleaned up.  They looked great for his first try!

2016-04-21 - in Big Majors (Pirate Beach)

In Little Farmers Cay Kerry and Connor met a lovely couple from Berlin, Germany who were travelling by their private plane.  They keep their plane in the U.S. and decided their next trip would be to the Bahamas.  The airstrip is parallel to the beach which is steps away from the beach bar.  Perfect spot!  They all chatted that night at the restaurant and, in the morning, Stephanie and Torsten came to the beach to call to us and let us know they were leaving and they would take some aerial shots on their way out.  How exciting for us! We scrambled on deck and waved our friends off. These pics just arrived to us today!

2016-04-20 - in Big Majors (Pirate Beach)

Connor woke up early and got straight into his school work.  He has been working really independently  which helps us all and he feels good about directing his learning.  We had a great discussion on tides as we are learning about the interactions of the sun, moon, and Earth for science.  We made models to help us understand Neap and Spring Tides.  Tides are ripping through the cut beside us during each tide cycle.  We were excited to jump back in and do another drift dive.  By late afternoon, we were in the dinghy and made about 4 runs on the cut.  It is absolutely exhilarating jumping in and letting the current take you as you experience whatever sea life is below.  Today we saw lots of great animals...eagle Ray, sea turtle, etc. Connor especially loves to dive to the middle of the water column and 'fly' through the water. (In the pic below he was about 15 feet below the surface with 15 more feet under him)

2016-04-20 - reminiscing 2007-2012-2016 same beach....