Wednesday, January 20, 2016

2016-01-20 - to Black Point Settlement, Exumas

Another cold front is heading our way and it has been a challenge to plan our route keeping in mind that we need a little 'hidey hole' to tuck away into while the storm passes.  The wind is expected to be strong and coming from the west.  Westerly winds are a little harder to find protection as the smaller cays offer little in harbours to wait out winds.  This is supposed to hit in 2 days so we have a little bit of time to still enjoy the cays ensuring we are tucked away for Friday night.



We decided to head to Black Point Settlement just south of Staniel Cay.  I really like Black Point.  We have come to this settlement many times on our trips down here.  It is a small village that isn't touristy but still offers some amenities for travelling cruisers.  Connor was especially interested in meeting up with our friend we met last time - Mario.  Connor spent many days in our previous trip playing card games and socializing with this young man.   As we arrived at the dock and made our way up the pier to the town we wondered if Mario was still here.  As we rounded the corner to head up the main road, who should be there...but Mario.  He seemed to recognize us right away and pointed to the kids.  It was really great to see him.  He used to carry a bag of playing cards.  Kerry asked him if he still plays cards and he nodded but when Kerry asked if he still had the cards, he indicated that he did not have any left. After a stay in the town, which included lunch at Lorraines Cafe and internet connections we all came back to the boat to see if we had any playing cards.  We found two full sets and quickly sped to shore in the dinghy to offer the cards to our friend.  Connor spent the next while reconnecting with Mario and his love of playing cards.  The game was slightly different (Connor recollected) but the value of spending time with Mario since Connor was eight was invaluable.

2016-01-19 - in Staniel Cay, Exumas

We had a fun morning with our new friends who we met yesterday.  They arrived on land at 8am.  Kerry picked them up and, once aboard, we motored over to see the swimming pigs.  We anchored as close as we could to the beach and launched the dinghy with a bucket of corn tortilla shells for the four-legged inhabitants.  At first, there were only a few pigs on the beach and didn't seem interested.  But suddenly, they must have sensed food causing a little bit of a beach stampede.  They are quite big and, interestingly, there were a few goats and several chickens added to this tropical 'petting zoo'.  Connor had the bag of food causing them to pay a little more attention to him.   Once we visited the pigs we upanchored and headed back to the Staniel area to check out Thunderball Grotto.  We were timing slack and low tide so that we all could pass through the entrance way.  It is a beautiful snorkle once inside the Grotto.  Several large queen angelfish were mesmerizing to watch - so colourful and majestic. Once the current started to pick up again...we headed back to the boat and said goodbye to our guests.  The rest of the day was picking up propane, school, and reanchoring.  The night before the boat was jerking back and forth with the wind and current.  We ended up back at pig beach where we had a more relaxed sleep.

2016-01-18 - to Staniel Cay, Exumas





This morning we left for civilization... Staniel Cay.  Realizing that this, to some, is a bit of a stretch it was the closest we have been to a 'town' since Nassau.  We headed out the cut north of the Cay to head out onto the Sound side.  We were hoping to try our hand at fishing again as it had been a while since we had spent the last few days in the Exuma Land and Sea Park (no fishing zones).  Alas, the fish did not bite as we trolled our largest lures.  It will be lentils again tonight!  We pulled into Staniel Cay late morning and went straight to the fuel and water dock at the Staniel Cay Yacht Club.  It had been 2 weeks that we had filled our tanks so we were 'thirsty' for fluids.  Water now comes at a price.  It is priced here at 40 cents per litre - almost 30 dollars fills our tanks.  We are topped up and ready to go.  Connor was dying to get to land to explore.  He departed at the fuel dock and Kerry and I pulled over to the anchorage, anchored, deployed the dinghy and headed over to land ourselves.  The other 'filling up' we needed to do was propane.  We gathered our tanks and walked through the town to the outskirts to drop off our tanks for filling.  This process is by gravity and is quite slow.  We ended up meeting a couple on vacation on the island.  While waiting for the store to open, we ended up chatting and even bumped into them later that day at the yacht club.  We ended up inviting them out to do the Thunderball Grotto and the pigs tomorrow as they had that in mind and we all thought it would be fun to do together. (more on that later).  We did end up hitting one of the two grocery stores,  One is the Pink Pearl and the other is the Blue Store.  We each bought an apple and gobbled it down.  We have been out of fresh foods for a while.  It felt like the juiciest apple I had ever had!!

2016-01-17 - in Cambridge Cay, Exumas


2016-01-16 - to Cambridge Cay, Exumas



2016-01-15 - in Warderick Wells, Exumas


anyone for a kayak ride?

Thursday, January 14, 2016

2016-01-14 - in Warderick Wells, Exumas

Today was cloudy and stormy.  Connor and Kerry took the dinghy for a ride south of the anchorage to Emerald Rock and the beaches nearby, and took a short hike on the island.  There are lots of palm trees, here, but they are not over 15 feet tall, probably due to the lack of soil.  There is virtually no top soil.  Only a bit of sand covers portions of the jagged lime type of rock.  Connor still managed to get out to the sand bar that surrounds the boat to hang out building in the sand.  There was a large sting ray hanging out on the sand bar as Connor approached.  Startled by Connor, it zipped off into the deeper water.  It's fascinating to have creatures such as this hanging out in our 'backyard'.

Wednesday, January 13, 2016

2016-01-13 - in Warderick Wells, Exumas

2016-01-12 - in Warderick Wells, Exumas

Warderick Wells is one of the most beautiful places on earth – especially for cruisers and people who love water. The colours of the water from the different depths are amazing.  It is located at the centre of the Exuma Land and Sea Park and provides good protection to cruisers from the sea in its picture perfect anchorage.  Taking a hike up Boo Boo hill allows you to see the deep, dark blue waters of the ocean to the east (which are 2 km deep) while also seeing the anchorage and the banks that range from 0 to 20 feet deep. Connor and I hiked up the hill to see if we could find our boat sign that we left here 4 years ago.  Boats can decorate a piece of driftwood with the names of boats and crew as a momento.  There was a pile of these signs layered with memories of cruisers.  We had a quick look through, but didn't locate it.  We will have to leave another to find in future years.



2016-01-11 -to Shroud Cay and to Warderick Wells, Exumas



We left Norman’s Cay to go back to another spot at Shroud Cay and traverse the northtidal  river with our dinghy, that flows east – west between the banks and the deep  Exuma Sound.  The clarity of the water is amazing, and we saw two sea turtles along the way.  At the east and exposed side of the island was a beautiful beach and sand bar.  The flow of the tidal river was very swift with swirling eddies.  To ensure that we did not get into trouble, we wore life jackets and attached a long line between ourselves and someone at shore, so we could be pulled in if required.  After this great adventure, we went back to Hi 5 and sailed south to the mooring field at Warderick Wells.

2016-01-10 - to Shroud Cay, Exumas

2016-01-09 - in Normans Cay, Exumas

We did a bit of school and in the afternoon Isla Bonita came over to see if we wanted to go fishing with them.  I went with Connor and the dad and son from Isla Bonita were there.  We did several
reefs just outside of Norman’s and even went over to Wax Cay.  Later we went to the inlet to the deeper water.  They wanted conch and they are found about 20 feet down.  Isla Bonita are very skilled all aspects of fishing as they have been doing this for 13 year straight.  I was enjoying learning about the ‘ins and outs’ of fishing.  There was a remora who decided to join us in our conch quest.  It was actually trying to attach itself to us.   It was a lot of fun to experience.  When the conch were being cleaned the remora was at the ready to receive the scrap

2016-01-08 - in Normans Cay, Exumas

We woke up this morning to absolutely calm and clear water.  You see right down to the bottom and watch conch as they grazed on the grasses below.  We did a lot of paddle boarding and just enjoyed nature below.  There was one barracuda and a ray that we enjoyed following.  We also explored on the dinghy.  We went to ‘Our Island’ (a lovely little island with one palm on it) – I am sure everyone calls it ‘Our Island’!   As we returned we spotted a large spotted eagle ray below us.  It was beautiful. After school, Connor went exploring reefs with the boy from Isla Bonita and they did some spear fishing.  They came back with 3 fish that they caught.  He really enjoyed that experience. 
Sunken plane - awesome to snorkle on

Hanging our at Ã’ur Island....with Isla Bonita friend

Hi5 anchored at Normans

2016-01-07 - in Normans Cay, Exumas

After the storm.  We were thankful to be done with the storm.  There were a few reports lost dinghies, a man also had to be taken to Nassau to fix his partially severed finger.   He had gotten it caught between the chain and the boat while trying to fix his anchor.  We almost lost our dinghy.  It was tied to the side of our boat and, periodically, it would take flight….motor and all.   Interestingly, dinghies were being found and returned to owners over the radio.  Everyone was being helpful trying to get things back to normal.  There was one completely lost 26ft sailboat that they rescued the people but the boat drifted off.  They were on the bank side where the wind and waves would have been very violent.  Their boat was later found sunk and partially exposed on the banks but we didn’t hear where.   


We ended up going to the fabulous beach that we found yesterday.  It was super.  The sound side was calm and we snorkeled in the shallow water and found lots of sand dollars.  It was a big difference to yesterday.  We explored the entrance to Normans Cay Pond where another boat Isla Bonita was anchored in the storm.  They were actually away from their boat during the storm as they were visiting a boat in our anchorage.  It must have been a ‘nail biter’ thinking that your boat is unattended during the storm.  When they returned in the morning, all was as they left it.  Phew.  They ended up leaving the pond and joining our anchorage that night.  We ended up having a campfire together in the evening and reconnected after meeting them on both our trips.

2016-01-06 - in Normans Cay, Exumas

Another boat barely visable during the storm
In the morning we were all done with the rolling in the anchorage.  A few boats started to make their way back to the inside anchorage at Normans Cay.  Another boat had gone first and reported back that, while it was still quite choppy in the anchorage, there wasn’t a swell.  The chop continued until early afternoon and then everything settled to a quiet and very calm state.  It was beautiful.  Kerry went to investigate the north beaches and came back to report that it was gorgeous.  He insisted that we all get ready to head there.  We then noticed a large black sky approaching from the north west.  We paused in our decision to leave the boat to give us a chance to assess this looming presence.  There was no weather forecasted after yesterday’s storm.  We were a little puzzled.  Within 10 minutes of deciding to wait the storm hit hard.  The wind was between 30-40 knots in the anchorage with 3 foot rolling waves.  We had anchored in the shallow area of the anchorage so, luckily, there was no one in front of us that could drag on us.  Rain was coming down hard as well.  So much so that we lost sight of all other boats in the anchorage.  At this point we were feeling secure in our anchor and enjoyed the force of nature that was impacting us.  Connor and I were collecting water in our little bucket for laundry.  During yesterday’s storm we had set up a collection for fresh rainwater to help us stretch our water supply out.  I was, at first, quite pleased at all of the water we were collecting.  We systematically transferred our little buckets into the larger container.  As the rain, plummeted down…I began to realize that we are going to exceed our need for fresh water.  Connor and I had a little water fight and enjoyed the rain – I was also trying to keep our spirits light in the situation.  Then, as the rain kept coming and the wind was sustained, the boat was rocking.  Our prized bucket of water was sloshing back and forth and, in the name of safety…I ended up tossing all of our water overboard.  We needed to clear the deck and hunker down.  The wind subsided for about 30 minutes and we thought that was it.  Without warning and with clear sky, the wind picked up again.  Other boats were reporting 50-60 knot winds and some even reported 106 knots further south.  This had now been going on for several hours.  The sun was beginning to set and we knew that the night would bring a more serious tone.  All boats in the anchorage were now engines one and running lights.  We were all trying to keep our anchor.  There were a few boats in the anchorage that were dragging onto other boats.  One boat lost anchor and were just a boat length from another boat we met until his second anchor caught hold.  There was one boat in the anchorage that dropped and picked up anchor throughout the entire storm.  They must have been exhausted and we felt form them as they struggled to keep control.  Another boat was taking in water through all their hatches.  What a mess that would have been to dry up after.  Our boat was secure, solid and held in the wind.  We were all safe.  The storm finally subsided completely around 11pm.  Running lights were starting to be turned off and tired sailors were finally getting rest. It caught everyone off guard.  Chris Parker (weather) gave a report of the event in our daily weather report.  It was called a Derecho.  Here is the report for those interested in weather. http://www.spc.noaa.gov/misc/AbtDerechos/derechofacts.htm A Derecho is essentially "a self-sustaining linearly-organized storm". A Derecho often starts as a series of outflow boundaries/gust fronts extending from squalls/T-strms, advancing ahead of a pool of cold air aloft. Over time, these outflow boundaries/gust fronts can merge into a long line, and be self-sustaining. To meet the definition of a Derecho, the wind event must extend more than 240mi (from end-to-end), include wind gusts of at least 50k, and have several, well-separated 65k gusts. Winds are "straight line" in nature (rather than circular like in a tornado or hurricane), and typically blow perpendicular to the motion of the Derecho. Winds are supported not by the collapse of towering cumulonimbus clouds (as re typical squalls/T-strms), but rather by the inflow of warm air from ahead of the Derecho inward & upward into the pool of cold air aloft behind the Derecho...and fast-moving down-rushing air from the cold pool sustains the progressive gust front with the Derecho. Derechos are thought to occur less often in moist environments, where inhibiting factors include abundant low-level clouds and less-cool air aloft. Derechos typically form on the equatorial side of the JetStream, with strong wind-shear. The leading edge of a Derecho is often marked by some sort of a shelf cloud. Our event seems to meet all these criteria...we saw an event: --over 300mi from end-to-end, and persisted along a path over 400 miles --widespread wind gusts 50k+ along most of the line, with well-separated areas of 65k+ --straight-line winds, with reports of mostly uniform W-NW wind direction (perpendicular to the squall line) --pool of cold air aloft located behind the squall line --relatively-dry (cloud-free) conditions ahead of the squall line (at least in some areas) --some sort of a shelf cloud was clearly visible in many of the photos I saw taken in Georgetown just before the event --this occurred along the SE side of sub-Tropical JetStream, in an environment of strong wind shear

2016-01-05 - in Normans Cay, Exumas



We moved to the West side of Normans in the morning from the inside.  We were preparing for a storm that was forecasted to hit that evening with winds coming from the east.  It did indeed hit.  We were protected from the wind but there was a large swell in the anchorage.  Most monohulls were ‘hobby horsing’  (rocking front to back) and someone came one the radio in the evening (during the storm) and all that was said was, ‘boat for sale’.  It gave us a chuckle as we bounced up and down for hours.   Connor and I did manage to swim during the day to shore together to enjoy the motionless feeling as we walked on the beach.  

2016-01-04 - to Normans Cay, Exumas

We left Nassau behind to head to the Exumas.  Even on the rolly seas we made sure we got school done.  Connor decided that his classroom be in the cockpit but it didn't stop him from reeling in a small tuna during 'recess'.

a little fishing at recess time
weather in the distance 
arriving in the Exumas.....Normans Cay

Sunday, January 3, 2016

2016-01-03 - in Nassau



We are deciding this morning when we should move on.  There is a big blow that is coming for Tuesday and Wednesday.  The winds are supposed to reach just over 30 knots. We have chatting with a few other boats and we may all head over to the Exumas tomorrow and wait it out there.
Interestingly, we bumped into a boat that we met 4 years ago and sailed with for a bit. They are now called Water Lily and have 3 kids on board.   They are on a cat as well.  They have been sailing with another couple of cats and we may all join them tomorrow.  We also just found out that one of the boats are friends with a boat called, Isla Bonita, that we have sailed with on both of our trips.  They are anchored right now at the top of the Exumas.  It would be neat to see them all again.  All of these boats have kids, which is great for Connor and Dylan!

This. Is the shirt I picked up for Connor for his twelfth birthday because he turned 12 in the middle of the ocean!


Saturday, January 2, 2016

2016-01-01 and 02 - to Nassau, Bahamas


The Big Crossing - We pulled anchor outside of No Name Harbor at 6;40 am.  Already, we had seen a few boats leaving before sunrise and later found out that some of the boats left at 4:00 am.  We had calculated that leaving at our time would put us safely arriving in Nassau around noon the following day.  Because of the Gulf Stream affect, Kerry had made several calculations to ensure that we used the flow of the Gulf Stream to our advantage.  We originally headed south and then when we felt the Gulf Streams current the boat was pointed more north.  We had a compass heading of 105' but our actual GPS heading was 65' (the Gulf Stream had a 40 degree impact on our course).  It was a lively ride, a bit jerky with light SW winds while in the Gulf Stream.  We saw a few boats on the horizon before us and after, but we were alone for the entire trip.  Of course, we were going to try fishing again.  We had one line our right away.  About 4 hours later, Kerry yelled, 'fish on'! and we were all at our stations.  Kerry slowed down the boat and got the net, Connor jumped to get the rod, and I was right with him to hand line in as he managed the reel.  We had caught a 3 foot Mahi Mahi and we managed to clean and prepare it for our dinner later that evening.  (and for the next few days).  Our line went out again and it wasn't until a few hours later when another exiting event happened.  Again, Kerry yelled, 'fish on!'.  Connor runs to the line and yells....'it's a..... shark!!'.  I was already on the line and helping him get control of it.  So much power!  We managed to reel it closer to the boat and within 20 feet of the boat a lot of commotion and splashing...we finally knew what it was  - a sail fish!!.  It was shark grey but Kerry clearly saw the sail and the pointed mouth.  Awesome.  Thankfully, it got loose of the line and swam away.  These fish (we later read) can take several hours to bring in.  A few moments was all we really needed.  The pic of the fish is the closest to what we saw.
As the sun was setting, we had decided that we would make a short anchoring stop at the top of the tongue of the ocean before crossing to Nassau.  The moon did not rise until just before midnight making the several hours from sunset a sail in complete darkness.  The stars, however, were as bright as you could ever see and we saw several shooting stars.

We ended dropping the hook around 1:40 am for a few hours.

In the morning Connor drove us off of the anchorage and into the tongue of the ocean.  Happy Birthday Connor!!!

The crossing to Nassau was relatively calm. The seas, on occasion, were flat  with a light roll.  The flying fish were out and scooting in all directions.  We approached Nassau and hailed Nassau Harbor Control to gain permission into the harbour.  With permissions granted we motored by the several cruise ships at dock.
We arrived at our slip at the Nassau Harbor Club.  There were 3 boats that needed to clear customs (all had their yellow quarantine flags flying).  First a customs officer came to clear the boat and we paid for our cruising permit and fishing license.  Then, the immigration officer came to clear us into Bahamas.  Once that was done, we were finally able to get off of the boat.  We all had a swim and had birthday cake!



oh....almost forgot.  As we were bypassing Bimini (just entering Bahamian waters)...we stopped to do a bit of still fishing....just for fun at the drop off.  We did catch an ocean trigger, but let him go.  As we continued on Connor and I went to the bow of the boat to watch the colour change from deep brilliant blue of the deep ocean to clear.  But, as we did approach the shallow water a large dingy filled with border protection officers pulled up alongside.  One had an assault rifle and the several were carrying side pistols.  They boarded us and went through all of our lockers and cabinets looking for anything illegal.  I escorted one through the boat to show them the lockers inside and what was in them.  One of the officers brought a small black duffle bag from the front locker.  He brought it to the cockpit and placed it down in a manner that suggested....'there, you have been found!'.  Inside were small boxes wrapped tightly in white plastic bags.  It looked suspicious to me too.   They asked us to open it and what it was was Dylan's special prescription food  that Kerry had neatly wrapped in white garbage bags to keep them dry.  We had to sign a paper to say that we were boarded and that everything went well and the officers acted professionally.  What if we thought they didn't?  Would we say so? They had guns....fine job officers....now off you go.