We woke up this morning at the crack of dawn....actually, I think it was just before. We were planning on heading to Lucaya on Grand Bahama Island bit the crew made a decision to do the entire crossing to Florida. This passage should take 30+ hours. We will go through the night arriving in Ft. Pierce late in the afternoon tomorrow. Losing cell coverage soon. :)
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
2016-05-10 - to Little Harbour Cay, Berry Islands
We left this morning around 11 to make the crossing to the Berry Islands. Before leaving you need to gain permission from the harbour control. Harbour control informed us that a cruise ship was about to enter the harbour. We bobbed up and down for 30 minutes and then it came into view. Huge ships these are! We waited until the pilot slid her in beside the Disney Dream. We were on our way. It was a very bumpy ride most of the day causing us to feel a bit queasy (not Kerry, of course). We were fishing (naturally) and caught a very big Mahi again. Dinner is served!
The fun of the evening was putting our fish remains in the water tied to our boat to attract shark friends. As the sun was setting, 3-4 small shadows appeared behind the boat circling in and out for the fish. The Sharks are so cautious - it took them 30 minutes to take one bite. Then, we finally turned off the cockpit lights and went to bed. In the morning, we pulled in our line. No fish and a frayed line remained. I am going to miss hanging out with sharks.
2016-05-07 - in Spanish Wells (last night)
This is our final day in Spanish wells. We pulled away from the dock late afternoon and anchored next to our dear friends on Tanda Malaika. We planned to get together in the evening for a chit chat and sing along with ukuleles. Mycah has a beautiful voice so I let her lead with the vocals. Dylan didn't give her that freedom. Once he heard a Beatles song....he piped in with full vigour! He loved it. Connor spent the night sleeping in their sailbag with his new friend - what an experience! We will be sad to finally say goodbye! ( until we meet again!) :)2016-05-06 - in Spanish Wells
Buddas bus shack
This was supposed to be our last night. We had decided to go out with the crew of Tanda Malaika for a dinner. We chose Buddas! It is a bus that it started as but now boasts a lovely covered patio in the back. It was a nice way to spend our 'last' evening together. Both families paid with credit cards. Unfortunately, only cash was accepted so Belinda (mom) and Kerry had to venture out to the closest/only bank machine. It was several blocks away. Once the waitress learned that they were walking, she sent out the manager who jumped on her golf cart and blasted out of there as if she was apprehending a no paying customer. She was on her way to pick up the parents. We late learned that this was her only speed that she knew. As she was rounded corners on the return, everyone had to hold on for dear life. I understand now that they rent the 'slow' carts to the tourists.
On our way to dinner we met 3 lovely couples who were on their way to dinner as well. They had invited all of us to drop by to the beach for a farewell bonfire. Connor ended up going with the Tanda Malaika crew and we took Dylan home. We always need to work in pairs as it is impossible to lift Dylan to the boat by one person. So, we stick together...
On our way home a pick up truck went by and the occupant yelled, 'Dylan!' It was captain Ron who we met the other night at his dock. He is such a nice man and is so good with Dylan. We will miss him when we leave.
2016-05-05 - in Spanish Wells...still
'Sitting at the dock of the bay'... Is starting to ring through my mind. We are still here at the boat yard. They were busy with a couple of other boats...one that was damaged in last nights storm. When we went to bed we could tell that there was some unsettled weather coming. Our hatches were opened and closed several times as the rains came and went. Then, at some point in the evening, the wind and rain picked up significantly. We later learned that they measured 50 knots just outside the channel. We were solid on the dock but our friends on Tanda Malaika were at anchor in the harbour. As we watched the horizontal rain out our back door, we were hoping that they were ok. I turned our radio on just in case they were having trouble. The boat next to us that was just brought out of the water was having a bit of trouble with their canvas. No one was on board but their canvas top decided to break a support and the whole until was flapping violently in the wind, braking a hole in the top and scratching the fibreglass. It's a large motor yacht and I had sized it up to see if I could secure it for them...but it was two stories
The mom from Tanda Malaika called Kerry in the morning to see is he could assist. Their anchor bridle had broken in the storm and they needed a hand. She was alone with 3 of her kids at the time. All was well, Kerry helped and the store in town is set to deliver brand new lines tomorrow. Her husband just went away...just in time for the storm.
We all joined once again for driveway ice cream and Papa Scoops. We are starting to become familiar in town. As we were walking the employee hollered from her golf cart...'are ya coming tonight?' Of course! We wouldn't miss it. It was a fun walk home. The kids enjoyed skateboarding down the hills. Dylan was even thrilled to have a go!
Friday, May 6, 2016
Wednesday, May 4, 2016
2016-05-04 - in Spanish Wells
We are still on the hard at R + B Boatyard but expected to be completed today.
I just spent the most of the morning gathering supplies to take to a Hatian refugee village on Eleuthera. We were told that several hundred people were living there and could use extra supplies. Our new friends from Tanda Malaika learned about this village yesterday and we planned to go together. We left at noon to make our trip over the channel to Eleuthera. Asking a few locals, we soon found the small path, behind a parked white van. It was dusty, still and very hot. I had noticed that the rocks on the way were worn indicating that this was a well-traversed path.
It led us on a winding rocky hike through the wooded grounds. Soon, the village opened up before us. The homes were small and modest. Several dogs and goats roamed freely and chased each other playfully. We were met by a lovely woman named Michelene who helped us find the person in charge of the village. Another gentleman later opened up the church so we could place our gathered supplies.
We were also hoping to help them with some building projects but, they just completed the project that day and there wasn't anything to help out with. We were hoping to lend a hand, but felt comforted in the fact that the village was being looked after and the residents were supported. We will continue to look for more ways to help out in the future.
After we returned, the crew at the boatyard worked hard to finish the job. They splashed us back into the water late afternoon. We will be on the dock here for one night as they didn't get the job all finished due to the storm moving towards us.
Here is the completed Hi5:
2016-05-01 - in Spanish Wells
Everyday now, we need to be off of the boat in the morning so that they can work on it. It makes for a long day. Days are very warm! We ended up renting another golf cart to whiz arounddmthe island exploring the streets and beaches. We ended up heading to the bridge where local children jump off. We were joined with our friends from Tanda Malaika a spent the afternoon floating in the canal for hours.
Sunday, May 1, 2016
2016-04-30 - to Spanish Wells
We headed back through the Devil's Backbone in the morning. Several other boats were doing the same. Each of them had a pilot to guide them through. The highlight was being greeted by the high speed veery that runs from Spanish Wells to Harbour Island. Luckily we were in a larger area, free of corals!
We landed at the Spanish Wells Yacht Haven for a couple of days of dock time. Laundry, showers, Internet, swimming (pool) are on the menu. We met a foursome of men on a large sport fish in front of us and we chatted about fishing...great to learn some tips from the pros. And...to end the evening we wandered down the road to 'Papa Scoops', a driveway soft serve establishment. Each nigh they boast two flavours. Tonight was fresh coconut and Oreo cookie. They have been doing this for 10 years or so. As we sat and enjoyed our treats several cars and golf carts streamed by the driveway to get their orders.
Saturday, April 30, 2016
2016-04-29 - in Harbour Island
Finished our golf cart rental from yesterday. We all enjoyed driving up and down the streets of this fabulous little town. Lots of waves and smiles. We finally did one more trip to the beach. Fab day!
Thursday, April 28, 2016
2016-04-28 - to Harbour Island
I
Just a quick fill up of water before we leave!
So we are off to Harbour Island. To get there you need to get through a delightful stretch known as the Devil's Backbone. (See top of map below)
This 'nail-biting' stretch is 11-miles and a mere thread running along Eleuthera’s northern shoreline. It is littered with wrecks dating back hundreds of years. Apparently, the Eleutherans would tie lanterns to donkeys and walk them to cliffs to simulate a lighthouses so that ships would run aground thinking they were coming into safe harbour. They would, then, take the ships cargo for their own.
So, you can hire 'Bandit' who will pilot you through for $120 U.S. Each way. We could take the high speed ferry but only stay in Harbour Island for a few hours. We wanted to do this ourselves.
So, why we would want to traverse the Devil’s Backbone? Why not?!
ALL the various yachting guides essentially begins, “Don’t do it, first- timer.” (Second- or even third-timer is probably implied). This is our third season and we feel we have developed a bit of 'saltiness'.
So, “Golden coral heads” litter our path. There is also one particular narrow point that I went to the bow to ensure our path was true. Kerry had two screens going..the iPad with Garmin Blue Charts and our chart plotter. The coral heads are pretty but will puncture pitilessly. Passing clouds look like coral heads as their shadows dot the water. There are a few skinny navigational “marker” poles along the way but they have sometimes been reported missing, changed, moved or hurricane damaged. You just have to be on the whole time, reading the water, eyes on screens watching how well you are following the rhumb line. All in all the passage went great. We made it to our anchorage in Harbour Island. After a quick bite we made it to shore and found ourselves renting a golf cart. Sweet! Lots of laughs as we explored this fabulous village, soft pink beaches and extremely friendly locals. Many stopped to chat with Dylan, crouching down and holding his hand as they spoke softly to him....he loved it!
2016-04-27 - in Spanish Wells
From Wikipedia...some interesting facts about Spanish Wells...
Spanish Wells is one of the districts of the Bahamas. Spanish Wells is a small town on the island of St. George's Cay. It has a population of approximately 1,500 people. Many residents get around the island using golf carts instead of full-sized cars. Historically, the island was used as a last stop for Spanish ships returning to Europe, where these ships refilled their water supply from wells created for this purpose - thus the English name of the settlement: Spanish Wells.
The first colonists were the Eleutheran adventurers from Bermuda (intending to be some of the first settlers of Eleuthera), who suffered shipwreck on a reef, known as the "Devil's Backbone" off Eleuthera in 1647. After living in a cave known as "Preacher's Cave" on Eleuthera, they ended up at Spanish Wells. Among other, later, groups of settlers were Crown loyalists, who left the United States after the American Revolutionary War. Currently, (2006) Spanish Wells is a centre for lobster fishing in the Bahamas.
The area suffered extensive property damage during a direct hit from Hurricane Andrew in 1992 and Floyd in 1999.
2016-04-26 - to Spanish Wells
In the morning Connor and I did some exploring of the ruins. Below the pics is some interesting details of the island and the ruins that we found on the island after we returned. We are continuing researching to find out more.
We weighed anchor for Spanish Wells and hooked onto a mooring ball. We couldn't wait to get to town to explore the beautiful streets lined with colourful homes. lots of walking and exploring today!
In late April of 1696, the pirate Henry "Long Ben" Every (also sometimes known as John Avery) anchored here in the pirate ship Fancyafter fleeing the Atlantic. Meanwhile, asmaller boat containing four men went on to visit Nicholas Trott, the corrupt governor of the Bahamas who resided on New Providence, as part of a plot to bribe him to ensure Every would not be apprehended by local authorities during the ensuing manhunt by the English government. Every's plan was successful, and he was one of the few pirates in history to retire with his loot without being arrested or killed in battle.
According to the November 1874 edition of Harper's Monthly magazine (Volume 49, page 765-6), Royal Island's sheltered harbor was also a rendezvous where arms and stores were concealed, and where royalist privateers took refuge during the American Revolution. The magazine goes on to say that "an old stone house still remains there which has doubtless witnessed many wild, mysterious scenes in days gone by." Exploring the ruined estate on this island, one can certainly believe it!
The center of Royal Island is home to the ruins of an old mansion which once boasted numerous guesthouses, a bar, a large detached kitchen and bathroom, and several other outbuildings along with an impressive garden. Most of the references to habitation on this island have been found in nautical references which, as early 1887 (or possibly 1823 -- see below), refer to the house in reference to a nearby well full of good water. For example, the 1918 edition of the West Indies Pilot makes reference to "a large and conspicuous stone house" near the center of the island and 3/4 miles northeast of "two remarkable wooded paps or hummocks, about 75 feet high." Perhaps the same house is referred to in the 1887 and 1892 editions of that same reference, although they mention only a "house" without calling it "large" or "conspicuous" so perhaps these sources are referring to one of the earlier building. The first edition of the Colombian Navigator, published in 1823, refers to "a large house, with its garden, and some trees" on "Egg Isle", but since it does not provide any additional treatment of Egg Island or Royal Island, it seems possible that the "Egg Isle" was confused with Royal Island. Note that the guest houses scattered around the estate appear to be of much more recent construction than the main house and the older buildings on the east side of the estate. Further research is required to determine which building was indeed the first to be built.
Current references are consistent in claiming that the crumbling remains of the estate which can now be seen there was the center of a sheep farm on the island which was established by an estranged English dignitary. However, it is not clear how long ago the house was inhabited. The most recent individual to own the property was Mrs. Evelyn Guyton, although the house has been deserted for decades and was recently sold to a developer with plans to turn the island into a subdivision of luxury homes. Unfortunately, the current map of development plans on the Royal Island website seems to indicate that this historic estate is slated for demolition so that a pair of homes may be built on the underlying lot."
Monday, April 25, 2016
2016-14-25 - last day in the Exumas!
It's our final morning in the Exumas. We love the beauty of nature in the Exumas and will really being here.
Our last wouldn't be complete without a field trip to the beach to visit the iguanas.
Heading for Eleuthera - Royal island!!
Update: Just landed in Royal Island after a brisk sail - faster than we anticipated...8hours! Crew did great. Mini- crew had Gravol...just in case.
(Singing to rock in' tunes after a long day!)
Looking forward to heading into Spanish Wells tomorrow!
Sunday, April 24, 2016
2016-04-24 - to Allans Cay
We spent a few moments exploring the tranquility around Hog Cay this morning - hiking and investigating some underwater caves.
We weighed anchor at 10am for Allans Cay near the top of the Exuma chain. We arrived after 7:00 moments before the sun set. It was another busy day fishing and we were all proud of how we handled each catch. For 15 minutes we are a well oiled machine...reeling in, sails down or de powered, engines neutral, moving boat if needed, grabbing net, providing assistance, etc. these are all things that need to be done and we all share the tasks (especially Connor). The last guy was our largest fish...a 4-ft bull Mahi. The most amazing thing was the water was glowing with other Mahi swimming by as we were pulling in the fish. Tonight we offered the fish remains off the back of the boat. It's always exciting to see what shark would pay us a visit. Connor was on watch and piped up..."someone's here!". It was another large nurse shark. After a few tentative pass bys...the Sharks gently grasped the fish, thrashed a few times and the fish was gone. Another exciting end to a great day!
Hog Cay anchorage - all alone
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